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Altitude Sickness on Nepal Treks: Symptoms, Treatment, and When to Descend (Complete Guide)

Altitude Sickness on Nepal Treks: Symptoms, Treatment, and When to Descend (Complete Guide)

Altitude Sickness on Nepal Treks: Symptoms, Treatment, and When to Descend (Complete Guide)

I'm going to be blunt: altitude sickness doesn't care if you're fit, young, or have trekked before. I've seen marathon runners struggling at Namche Bazaar while 60-year-olds cruise to Everest Base Camp. I've watched cocky 25-year-olds need helicopter evacuation while cautious first-timers make it without issues.

After organizing 300+ high-altitude treks and dealing with countless altitude sickness cases (from mild headaches to life-threatening emergencies), here's everything you actually need to know.

No medical jargon. No sugar-coating. Just the real information that might save your trek—or your life.

What Actually Happens to Your Body at Altitude

Let's start with the science, simplified.

Sea level: Air is 21% oxygen. Your body is happy.

3,000m (Namche Bazaar): Air is still 21% oxygen, but atmospheric pressure is lower. Each breath delivers about 30% less oxygen to your blood.

5,000m (Everest Base Camp area): Each breath delivers roughly 50% less oxygen than at sea level.

5,500m+ (High passes): You're operating on about 40-45% of the oxygen your body normally gets.

Your body's response:

  1. Breathing rate increases (you're gasping even on flat ground)
  2. Heart rate increases (pumping harder to deliver limited oxygen)
  3. Blood thickens (body produces more red blood cells)
  4. You pee more (body sheds excess fluid to concentrate blood)
  5. Sleep becomes difficult (breathing pattern changes at night)

This is all normal. These adjustments take time—that's why acclimatization matters.

The problem: If you ascend faster than your body can adjust, fluid starts accumulating where it shouldn't—your brain (HACE) or lungs (HAPE). Both can kill you.

The Three Types of Altitude Sickness (And How to Recognize Each)

1. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) - The Common One

What it is: Mild to moderate altitude sickness. About 75% of trekkers experience some symptoms above 3,000m.

Symptoms (usually appear 6-24 hours after arriving at new altitude):

Mild AMS:

  • Headache (the main indicator)
  • Nausea or loss of appetite
  • Fatigue that feels disproportionate to effort
  • Dizziness or light-headedness
  • Trouble sleeping
  • Feeling slightly drunk or off-balance

Moderate AMS (more concerning):

  • Severe headache that doesn't respond to painkillers
  • Vomiting (not just nausea)
  • Extreme fatigue (can barely walk)
  • Shortness of breath even at rest
  • Decreased coordination (stumbling, difficulty with simple tasks)

Real example: On our Everest Base Camp Trek, a client (Tom, 32, very fit) arrived in Namche after climbing from Phakding. By evening he had a pounding headache and no appetite. He took ibuprofen, drank water, and rested. Next morning—still headache but manageable. We took an acclimatization day. By day three in Namche, he felt completely normal and continued the trek successfully.

That's how AMS should be handled: Recognize it, slow down, let your body adjust.

2. High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) - The Lung One

What it is: Fluid accumulation in the lungs. Less common than AMS but much more dangerous. Can develop rapidly, often at night. Usually occurs above 3,000m.

Early warning signs:

  • Excessive shortness of breath (worse than others in your group)
  • Can't catch your breath even after resting 15+ minutes
  • Dry cough that won't stop
  • Chest tightness or pressure
  • Decreased exercise performance (suddenly can't keep normal pace)

Severe HAPE symptoms:

  • Cough producing pink or bloody frothy sputum
  • Blue lips or fingernails (cyanosis)
  • Rapid heartbeat even at rest
  • Gurgling sound in chest
  • Extreme weakness
  • Confusion or irrational behavior

Critical fact: HAPE can progress from early symptoms to life-threatening in just 12-24 hours.

Real example: During a Manaslu Circuit Trek, a trekker (Lisa, 45) felt fine going to bed at Samdo (3,860m). At 2 AM she woke up with severe shortness of breath and couldn't stop coughing. Our guide recognized HAPE immediately. We gave her oxygen, started descent at first light, and arranged helicopter evacuation from lower elevation. She recovered fully in Kathmandu hospital within three days.

HAPE doesn't give you much time. Recognize it fast, descend immediately.

3. High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) - The Brain One

What it is: Fluid accumulation in the brain. Rare but extremely dangerous. Usually develops from untreated severe AMS. Most common above 4,000m but can occur lower.

Warning signs:

  • Severe, incapacitating headache that won't respond to any medication
  • Ataxia (loss of coordination) - can't walk heel-to-toe in straight line
  • Confusion, disorientation, or bizarre behavior
  • Altered consciousness (drowsiness, difficulty waking up)
  • Hallucinations
  • Seizures (in extreme cases)

The "ataxia test": Have the person walk in a straight line, placing heel directly in front of toe with each step (like a sobriety test). Healthy people can do this even with mild AMS. HACE victims cannot—they stumble, lose balance, or fall over.

Critical fact: HACE can kill within 24 hours if untreated. This is a medical emergency requiring immediate descent.

Real example: On the Everest Three Pass Trek, a trekker ignored moderate AMS symptoms at Lobuche (4,940m), insisted on continuing to Gorak Shep (5,164m). That night he became confused, couldn't recognize his guide, and kept trying to leave the lodge without clothes. Classic HACE. Emergency helicopter evacuation at dawn. He survived but spent a week in hospital.

HACE is what happens when you ignore warning signs.

The Lake Louise Score (How Doctors Measure AMS)

Medical teams use this scoring system. You can use it too:

Score your symptoms (each from 0-3):

  1. Headache: None (0), Mild (1), Moderate (2), Severe/incapacitating (3)
  2. Gastrointestinal: None (0), Poor appetite or nausea (1), Moderate nausea or vomiting (2), Severe vomiting (3)
  3. Fatigue/Weakness: None (0), Mild (1), Moderate (2), Severe/incapacitating (3)
  4. Dizziness/Lightheadedness: None (0), Mild (1), Moderate (2), Severe (3)

Your score:

  • 0-2: You're fine
  • 3-5: Mild AMS (monitor closely, don't ascend)
  • 6-9: Moderate AMS (descend if not improving in 24 hours)
  • 10+: Severe AMS (descend immediately)

Pro tip: Score yourself every evening during the trek. If your score is increasing, you're not acclimatizing properly.

What Actually Prevents Altitude Sickness (And What Doesn't)

What WORKS:

1. Slow, Gradual Ascent

The golden rule: Don't ascend more than 300-500m in sleeping altitude per day above 3,000m.

Notice I said sleeping altitude, not hiking altitude. You can hike higher during the day—that's actually beneficial. But where you sleep matters most.

Example from Everest Base Camp Trek:

  • Sleep in Namche (3,440m): 2 nights
  • Sleep in Tengboche (3,860m): 1 night = 420m gain
  • Sleep in Dingboche (4,410m): 2 nights = 550m gain
  • Sleep in Lobuche (4,940m): 1 night = 530m gain

See the pattern? Gradual gains, acclimatization days built in.

2. Acclimatization Days

These aren't "rest days"—you should hike higher during the day, then return to sleep at the same altitude.

Classic acclimatization day activities:

  • Namche: Hike to Everest View Hotel (3,880m), return to sleep at Namche (3,440m)
  • Dingboche: Hike to Nangkartshang Peak (5,083m), return to sleep at Dingboche (4,410m)

This "climb high, sleep low" principle is the most effective acclimatization strategy.

3. Proper Hydration

Your body needs 4-5 liters of fluid per day at altitude. Seriously.

Why: Increased breathing rate (you're literally breathing out moisture), increased urination (your body's natural acclimatization response), dry mountain air.

How to know you're hydrated: Your urine should be clear or pale yellow. Dark yellow = drink more.

Pro tip: Drink before you're thirsty. By the time you feel thirsty at altitude, you're already dehydrated.

4. Avoiding Alcohol

Alcohol worsens altitude sickness in multiple ways:

  • Causes dehydration
  • Depresses breathing (you need to breathe MORE at altitude)
  • Makes it harder to recognize symptoms
  • Disrupts sleep quality

That beer in Namche is tempting. Skip it until you're descending.

5. Light Exercise on Acclimatization Days

Gentle movement stimulates deeper breathing and circulation. A 2-3 hour hike at moderate pace is perfect.

Don't: Rest all day in your lodge room. You'll actually acclimatize worse.

6. Quality Sleep (As Much As Possible)

Sleep is when your body does acclimatization work. Problem: altitude makes sleep difficult.

Tips that actually help:

  • Sleep with head slightly elevated
  • Don't eat heavy meals within 2 hours of bed
  • Keep warm (cold disrupts sleep)
  • Practice slow, deep breathing if you wake up gasping

What MIGHT Help (Evidence Is Mixed):

Diamox (Acetazolamide)

This prescription medication helps prevent and treat altitude sickness.

How it works: Forces your kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, which acidifies your blood slightly, stimulating breathing.

Typical dosage: 125-250mg twice daily, starting 1-2 days before ascent.

Real effects:

  • Reduces AMS symptoms in about 50-75% of people
  • Helps you breathe better at night
  • Speeds acclimatization slightly

Side effects:

  • Tingling in fingers, toes, lips (very common, harmless)
  • Altered taste (carbonated drinks taste flat)
  • Increased urination (already happening at altitude anyway)
  • Rarely: nausea, dizziness

My take: Many experienced guides and doctors recommend it, especially for people with history of altitude sickness. It's not cheating—it's a tool. But it doesn't replace proper acclimatization.

Important: Diamox is a sulfa drug. If you're allergic to sulfa medications, don't take it.

On our Annapurna Circuit Trek, about 40% of trekkers take Diamox preventatively before crossing Thorong La Pass (5,416m). Most report it helps with sleep and reduces headache severity.

Ginkgo Biloba

Some studies show it might help prevent AMS. Others show no effect.

My observation: Doesn't seem to hurt, probably doesn't help much. If you believe in it, take it. Placebo effect is real.

Coca/Mate Tea

Popular in South America for altitude. Some lodges in Nepal serve it.

Reality: Contains mild stimulants. Might make you feel slightly better but doesn't prevent AMS.

What DOESN'T Work (Stop Believing These Myths):

"Being fit prevents altitude sickness"

No. Fitness helps you walk longer, but it doesn't help you acclimatize. I've seen ultra-marathoners get severe AMS while overweight 50-year-olds cruise past them.

"Younger people handle altitude better"

No. Age doesn't matter. Teenagers and 20-somethings get altitude sickness just as often as older people—sometimes more, because they push too hard.

"If you've been to altitude before, you're immune"

No. Previous successful acclimatization doesn't guarantee future success. Some people develop altitude sickness on their third trek after being fine twice before.

"Oxygen bottles prevent altitude sickness"

No. Supplemental oxygen treats symptoms temporarily but doesn't help acclimatization. When you stop using oxygen, symptoms return. It's for emergencies, not prevention.

"Breathing faster helps"

Partially true but misleading. Your body naturally breathes faster—you don't need to force it. Deliberate hyperventilation can actually cause other problems (tingling, dizziness from low CO2).

Treatment: What to Do When Symptoms Hit

For Mild AMS (Headache, slight nausea, fatigue):

1. STOP ASCENDING

This is the most important rule. Don't go higher until symptoms improve.

Spend an extra night at current altitude. Most mild AMS resolves within 24-48 hours if you stop ascending.

2. Rest and Hydrate

  • Drink 1-2 liters of water
  • Eat even if you don't feel like it (your body needs fuel)
  • Avoid strenuous activity
  • Stay warm

3. Basic Medications

For headache:

  • Ibuprofen (400-600mg) - preferred because it doesn't mask symptoms as much
  • Paracetamol/Acetaminophen (500-1000mg) - also fine
  • Avoid aspirin (can increase bleeding risk)

For nausea:

  • Ondansetron/Zofran (4-8mg) - prescription medication, very effective
  • Ginger tea - natural remedy that sometimes helps

4. Monitor Closely

Check symptoms every few hours. If improving, you can continue next day. If worsening or not improving after 24 hours, descend.

Example: During our Gokyo Valley Trek, a trekker developed headache and nausea arriving at Dole (4,200m). She took ibuprofen, drank water, and rested. Next morning—still slight headache but appetite returned. She stayed an extra night, felt good on day three, and continued successfully to Gokyo.

For Moderate AMS (Severe headache, vomiting, extreme fatigue):

1. DESCEND 500-1,000m

Not tomorrow. Today. Even if it's afternoon, descend to the next lower village.

Why this works: Descent of even 500m can dramatically improve symptoms within hours.

2. Diamox (if available and not contraindicated)

250mg twice daily can speed recovery if you've descended.

3. Oxygen (if available)

1-2 liters per minute via nasal cannula can help symptoms while you prepare to descend.

4. Don't Continue Up

Even if you feel better after treatment, DO NOT continue ascending. Descend or at minimum stay put for several days.

For HAPE (Lung fluid - shortness of breath, cough, blue lips):

IMMEDIATE DESCENT IS MANDATORY

HAPE is life-threatening. People have died within 12-24 hours of first symptoms.

Treatment while descending:

  • Oxygen if available (4-6 liters/minute)
  • Nifedipine (medication that helps, if available)
  • Keep person warm
  • Minimize exertion (porter carries pack, slow pace)

Descend at least 1,000m, preferably to below 3,000m

Get medical care: Even if symptoms improve during descent, see a doctor. HAPE can recur.

Helicopter evacuation: Often necessary if symptoms are severe or descent is difficult.

For HACE (Brain swelling - confusion, ataxia, altered consciousness):

THIS IS A MEDICAL EMERGENCY

Immediate actions:

  1. Descend immediately - even at night if necessary
  2. Dexamethasone (steroid medication) - 8mg initial dose, then 4mg every 6 hours
  3. Oxygen - high flow if available
  4. Gamow bag (portable altitude chamber) - if descent not immediately possible

HACE victims cannot make decisions for themselves. Guide or trekking partner must make decisions and enforce immediate descent.

Don't wait until morning. Don't wait for helicopter. Start descending NOW.

Even 500m descent can save someone's life while you arrange further evacuation.

Pulse Oximeters: The Essential Tool (And How to Use It)

A pulse oximeter measures oxygen saturation in your blood (SpO2). Every trek guide should carry one.

Normal readings:

  • Sea level: 95-100% SpO2
  • 3,000m: 90-95% SpO2
  • 4,000m: 85-90% SpO2
  • 5,000m: 80-85% SpO2
  • 5,500m: 75-80% SpO2

How to use it correctly:

  1. Sit still for 2-3 minutes before measuring
  2. Remove nail polish (interferes with reading)
  3. Warm up cold fingers first
  4. Take reading at same time each day (morning is best)
  5. Compare to others in your group

What the numbers mean:

SpO2 above 85% at any altitude: Generally okay if you feel fine

SpO2 75-85% at high altitude (4,500m+): Normal but monitor symptoms closely

SpO2 below 75% anywhere: Concerning - check for AMS symptoms

SpO2 dropping rapidly (more than 5% in few hours): Warning sign even if still in "normal" range for altitude

Important: Don't obsess over numbers. Someone with 82% SpO2 who feels great and is hiking well is fine. Someone with 88% SpO2 who has headache and nausea needs attention.

Heart rate matters too:

  • Resting heart rate 20+ beats higher than your normal: Sign your body is working hard
  • Heart rate above 100 at rest: Monitor closely
  • Heart rate not decreasing after several days at same altitude: Possible acclimatization problem

On our Annapurna Base Camp Trek, guides check pulse oximeter readings every evening. It helps identify people who might develop problems before severe symptoms appear.

The Descent Decision: When to Go Down

This is the hardest decision on any high-altitude trek. Nobody wants to turn back after investing time, money, and effort.

You MUST descend if:

  1. Symptoms of HACE: Confusion, severe ataxia, altered consciousness
  2. Symptoms of HAPE: Severe shortness of breath at rest, pink/bloody sputum, blue lips
  3. AMS getting worse despite rest and medication
  4. AMS not improving after 24-48 hours at same altitude
  5. Gut feeling something is seriously wrong

You SHOULD descend if:

  1. Moderate AMS symptoms that aren't improving
  2. Can't eat or drink due to nausea/vomiting
  3. Can't sleep for multiple nights due to symptoms
  4. SpO2 dropping despite acclimatization time
  5. Feeling significantly worse than others in group at same altitude

You CAN probably stay if:

  1. Mild headache that responds to ibuprofen
  2. Slight nausea but can still eat
  3. Sleeping okay (or at least 4-5 hours)
  4. Energy adequate for hiking
  5. Symptoms stable or slowly improving

Real example of a tough call: On the Everest Three Pass Trek, a trekker (James, 38) developed moderate headache and nausea at Dingboche (4,410m). He took medication, rested an extra day, but still had headache. We made the call to descend to Tengboche (3,860m). Within 6 hours of descending, he felt 80% better. We spent two nights there, he re-acclimatized properly, and successfully completed the entire trek taking a slower pace.

That's a smart descent. Not a failure—a tactical adjustment.

The Ego Problem

I've seen people refuse to descend because:

  • "I came all this way"
  • "Everyone else is fine"
  • "I don't want to let the group down"
  • "It's just a headache"
  • "I'll be okay by tomorrow"

Here's reality: Dead people all thought they'd be okay by tomorrow.

Every year, trekkers die from altitude sickness. Not because treatment doesn't exist, but because they ignored symptoms or delayed descent.

Your guide will tell you to descend if necessary. Listen to them. They've seen dozens of altitude sickness cases. You haven't.

Special Cases and Common Questions

"I have asthma - can I trek at altitude?"

Generally yes, but consult your doctor first.

Reality: Many asthmatics do fine at altitude. Cold, dry air can trigger symptoms, so:

  • Bring extra inhalers
  • Use preventative inhaler regularly
  • Cover mouth/nose with buff or scarf in cold air
  • Inform your guide about your condition

Several clients with well-controlled asthma have completed our Everest Base Camp Trek successfully.

"I have high blood pressure - is altitude dangerous?"

Depends on how well controlled it is.

If controlled with medication: Usually fine, but:

  • Bring adequate medication supply
  • Some blood pressure meds (like ACE inhibitors) can interact with altitude - check with doctor
  • Monitor blood pressure if possible

If uncontrolled: High altitude can worsen hypertension. Get it controlled before attempting high-altitude treks.

"Can I get altitude sickness twice on the same trek?"

Yes. Acclimatization can reverse if you:

  • Descend for several days then re-ascend quickly
  • Get sick (even a cold) which sets back acclimatization
  • Become dehydrated
  • Don't sleep enough

Example: On Manaslu Circuit Trek, after successfully crossing Larkya La Pass (5,160m) and descending to Dharapani (1,860m), a trekker got food poisoning. After recovering, we had to re-acclimatize slowly going back up for a side trip.

"Does Diamox work for everyone?"

No. About 75% of people find it helpful. 25% either see no benefit or can't tolerate side effects.

Some people can't take Diamox due to:

  • Sulfa allergy
  • Severe kidney disease
  • Low sodium levels
  • Severe liver disease

Always discuss with a doctor before your trek.

"What about kids at altitude?"

Children can get altitude sickness but often can't articulate symptoms clearly.

Guidelines:

  • Kids under 10: Generally shouldn't go above 3,000-3,500m
  • Kids 10-14: Can go higher but need very close monitoring
  • Teenagers: Treat like adults but watch closely as they may hide symptoms

We don't recommend high-altitude treks (above 4,000m) for children under 12.

"Can I drink alcohol after symptoms resolve?"

Wait until you've descended significantly (below 3,000m) or completed the trek. Alcohol at altitude:

  • Slows recovery
  • Can trigger recurrence of symptoms
  • Impairs judgment about your condition

That celebratory beer? Save it for Kathmandu.

"Do women get altitude sickness more than men?"

No. Gender doesn't affect susceptibility. However:

  • Some women report symptoms worsen during menstruation
  • Hormonal changes might affect fluid retention
  • Women are sometimes better at recognizing and reporting symptoms (which is good!)

Emergency Contacts and Resources

In Nepal:

CIWEC Clinic Travel Medicine Center (Kathmandu)

  • Phone: +977-1-4424111
  • 24-hour emergency: +977-1-4435232
  • English-speaking doctors, Western-trained
  • Experienced with altitude sickness

Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA)

  • Aid posts in Pheriche (Everest region) and Manang (Annapurna)
  • Staffed by volunteer Western doctors during trekking season
  • Free consultations
  • Excellent resource for altitude sickness treatment

Helicopter Evacuation Companies:

  • Simrik Air: +977-1-4480277
  • Fishtail Air: +977-1-4465187
  • Altitude Air: +977-1-4465089

Make sure your travel insurance covers helicopter evacuation to 6,000m before trekking.

International Resources:

Altitude.org - Comprehensive altitude medicine information

International Society for Mountain Medicine (ISMM) - Medical guidelines and research

Wilderness Medical Society - Practice guidelines for altitude illness

The Bottom Line (What You Really Need to Remember)

After all this information, here's what actually matters:

1. Ascend slowly. Don't gain more than 500m sleeping altitude per day above 3,000m.

2. Build in acclimatization days. Hike higher, sleep lower. Your body needs time.

3. Stay hydrated. 4-5 liters per day. Clear urine is the goal.

4. Recognize symptoms early. Headache + fatigue + nausea = AMS until proven otherwise.

5. Don't ascend with symptoms. If you're sick, stay put or go down.

6. Descend if getting worse. Even 500m helps. Don't wait.

7. HACE and HAPE are emergencies. Immediate descent required.

8. Listen to your guide. They've seen this before. Your ego hasn't.

9. No mountain is worth dying for. Seriously. You can always come back.

10. Insurance covering helicopter evacuation is mandatory. Not optional.

Routes By Altitude Risk (Choosing Your Trek Wisely)

If you're concerned about altitude, consider these options:

Lower Risk (Max altitude under 4,000m):

These are excellent for first-time trekkers or those worried about altitude.

Moderate Risk (Max altitude 4,000-5,000m):

These require proper acclimatization but risk is manageable with good itineraries.

Higher Risk (Max altitude 5,000-5,500m):

These require excellent acclimatization schedules and close monitoring.

Highest Risk (Max altitude above 5,500m):

Only for experienced trekkers with proven acclimatization ability.

Final Thoughts From Someone Who's Seen It All

In seven years and 300+ high-altitude treks, I've dealt with:

  • Dozens of mild AMS cases (resolved with rest)
  • Maybe 15 moderate AMS cases (required descent)
  • 4 HAPE cases (all required helicopter evacuation)
  • 2 HACE cases (one evacuated, one descended on foot)
  • Zero deaths (and I want to keep it that way)

Here's what I've learned:

The people who do best at altitude aren't the fittest, youngest, or most experienced. They're the ones who:

  • Listen to their bodies
  • Speak up about symptoms early
  • Don't let ego drive decisions
  • Trust their guides
  • Aren't afraid to slow down or turn back

The people who get in trouble:

  • Ignore early warning signs
  • Push through symptoms hoping they'll improve
  • Don't want to "let the group down"
  • Worry about wasted money or time
  • Think being fit makes them immune

Your safety is worth more than your summit photo.

If you take away one thing from this massive article, take this: When in doubt, go down.

Going down is not failing. Coming home alive is succeeding.

The mountains will still be there next year. Your health might not be if you make a bad decision at altitude.

Trek smart, acclimatize properly, recognize symptoms early, and don't be a hero.

See you safely on the trail.


Have questions about altitude sickness for your specific trek? Ask your guide during the pre-trek briefing. Every route has unique altitude challenges, and experienced guides can provide route-specific advice.

Planning a high-altitude trek? Make sure your itinerary includes proper acclimatization days. If a company is offering suspiciously short itineraries (like 10-day Everest Base Camp), that's a red flag.

Your health, your trek, your decision. But make it an informed one.




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Art representing various natural and cultutal heritages of Nepal